There was plenty of banter between the Indian and Pakistani supporters © S Rajesh

The Wanderers is buzzing well before the start of play. With more than two hours for the game to begin, there is a crowd lining the street outside the stadium. They are the unlucky ones who don't yet have a ticket to the game - the match is officially sold out - obviously - but there is still the hope that an influential friend or a generous organiser can sneak a few in.

The more fortunate ones are already inside the stadium, or secure in the knowledge that they will be soon. The beer token counters are already seeing long queues, which isn't surprising considering it's a hot day. The flags, T-shirts, caps and various other items at the souvenir shops are all in huge demand, and people are willing to pay - the flags have already been marked up to R 120 [US$ 17], 20 more than the semi-final price.

Not that the people mind that, though. For an India-Pakistan match - and a final at that - it's a small price to pay. For Sadiq, an Indian originally from Gujarat but who is now based in Johannesburg, the final has been an exorbitant one: his wife and two children are also here, and he paid R 500 [US$ 72] for each ticket which should have cost R 160 [US$ 23]. He is one of many Indian supporters in a crowd which is dominated by the tri-colour, and by the end of the day, the money would have seemed very well spent.

The Pakistani supporters have an explanation for the skew: "We have at least around 2000 Pakistani supporters outside who couldn't get tickets," says one. Another attributes it to Ramadan, the month in which all Muslims are expected to fast through the day and have a meal only after sunset.

Those who are watching the game, though, are completely involved in the moment. As with any game between India and Pakistan, there is some needle between the supporters. There is a battle going on in the premium enclosures: a middle-aged Indian lady is so excited with Rohit Sharma's power hitting that she can't stop jumping madly, an act that doesn't go down well with the Pakistan supporters across the aisle. When an Indian wicket falls, the retort is immediate. During the innings break, though, both parties patch up, promising to treat this as only a game.

Whether they kept that promise through the enthralling second half isn't known, but down on the grassy embankments, the excitement is equally palpable. Most of the region is again dominated by the Indians, but a small but extremely vocal section of the Pakistani supporters are doing an
excellent job of keeping the Indians at bay, especially when Imran Nazir is blasting Sreesanth to all parts.

It isn't as if the Wanderers is filled with Indians and Pakistanis, though. There are plenty of South Africans too, in a format of the game which makes it much easier to be a neutral fan ("There're plenty of fours and sixes, and lots of entertainment, so it doesn't matter if the home team isn't playing," is the common refrain).

Much of the neutral support today is for India, and a significant reason for that is that Yuvraj Singh's clean hitting in his last two matches. A 12-ball fifty against England - including that stunning six sixes in an over - and another blistering one against Australia speaks for itself. "The Indians are also a more friendly team," says Rob, a South African who is a regular cricket
watcher at the Wanderers, and has met the Indian, Pakistani, and England teams over the last couple of years.

Twenty20, though, is much more than just the cricket, and even if it's India versus Pakistan in a final, there are always other elements to enjoy. For Jackie and Megan, grade 10 students and casual cricketers, the fun and the challenge was to keep the beat with the cheerleaders. So every time they came up on stage to celebrate a boundary or a wicket, up went the two of them as well, doing all the steps, and patting themselves on the back for a job well done. As they say, to each his own.

	Australian supporters were hard to find in a sea of Indian fans at Kingsmead © S Rajesh

In what seemed like a uniform sea of Indian supporters, Brian and his family were a brave lot. Wearing a Qantas T-shirt and carrying a huge
Australian flag, there was no question about which team they were here to support. Was it daunting to be holding an Aussie flag when it was obvious they were so heavily outnumbered?

“It doesn’t really matter to us,” says Brian. “We [the Aussie supporters] might be just 1% of the total crowd today, but we’ll be the 1% who will be happy after the match.” Brian is from Durban, but has family in Australia, which is why he supports Australia whenever his home team isn’t playing.

Brian isn’t bothered by the fact Australia aren’t a popular team in this country. “People reckon they are arrogant, but the way they play, they have every right to be. This Indian team is pretty arrogant too,” he counters.

He is worried, though, about the prospect of Yuvraj Singh returning for the game. “Is he playing here?” Brian asks. When I tell him he probably is, Brian raises an eyebrow that seems to suggest ‘That could spell bad news for the Australians’. As it turns out, he was right in being worried about Yuvraj, and wrong about the 1% bit. unless, of course, he was so taken in by India’s performance that he switched allegiance during the game.

***

“We might have sold about a couple of Australian flags, and about 30 Indian ones,” reckons Naidoo, who works at Sports Shoppe, the small shop that sells souvenirs. The figures are equally skewed in another stall as well – ‘seven or eight Aussie flags, about 40 Indian ones’. As the Indians start pounding the boundaries, all those flags are put to good use; there are so many of them, India might well have been playing at home.

	The press box at Newlands wears a deserted look once the action's over © Andrew McGlashan

Home for the last ten days has been Cape Town and for much of that time the press box at Newlands. Having spent many hours there, it must rate as one of the best facilities in the world to go along with one of the top grounds.

Of course, the presence of Table Mountain helps provide a stunning setting which makes working at the ground a memorable experience. The facilities are also second-to-none, although some colleagues who spent time in Johannesburg earlier in the tournament said the sealed media centre meant a lack of atmosphere. I look forward to experiencing the intense atmosphere of the Wanderers on Monday.

But after the criticism that was handed out during the World Cup in West Indies earlier this year it seems only fair to say that this event, at least from the experience of Cape Town, has been run with impressive efficiency.

With such a rapid turnover of matches and teams it is easy to lose track, but information has been readily at hand. The hard-working volunteers and assistants have done a sterling job, especially with endless requests from journalists, while always working with a smile on their face.

They enjoyed a lap of honour around the ground during the interval between innings, and also a round of applause from the press box.

Considering Newlands came very close to losing its matches after the heavy winter rains in Cape Town the ground has stood up well. The pitch hasn't been a belter, but has provided some fascinating cricket and allowed the bowlers to have their say. We have also witnessed some huge sixes, great catches and a vibrant crowd.

It was a strange feeling looking out onto the ground after Pakistan's victory. Immediately the clean-up started, logos removed from the outfield, beer sheds taken down and camera positions packed away. It's the end of the Twenty20 party in Cape Town but they have played a full part.

	Bridget Anne Nel, better known as Funky B, and Dave MacLeod © S Rajesh

One could have been a journalist, the other an accountant. Instead, they are the DJ-announcer combination that has been rocking the Kingsmead cricket ground. Bridget Anne Nel, better known as Funky B, and Dave MacLeod, the director of Gameplan Media, have struck a fine partnership in their little DJ box just next to the media centre, but neither set out to make a living of music or sport.

"I have studied journalism, but my former boyfriend was a DJ and he introduced me into this world," says Bridget, who claims to be 28 but looks like she's 20. "There is no formal training involved here, but I was thrown into the deep end and I learned quickly." She has now been a DJ for seven years, and has loved every moment of it.

MacLeod's work experiences have been even more varied - he's been a radio and television presenter, and with his company, Gameplan, has been involved in various other sports: he was media officer for kayaking during the Athens Olympics and will do the job again at Beijing next year. Gameplan was responsible for introducing beach soccer to South Africa. His brief here, though, is quite different: get the crowd involved in the game, and gradually get them to learn about the finer points of the game.

Music-wise, the duo covers the entire gamut, from hip-hop to club to pop to Kwaito, which is the local South African club music. The aim, he explains, is two-fold. "We want to play popular music, but also introduce African music to the world." Bridget keeps it simpler: "It should be viby and should get the crowd going."

The fans have obviously lapped it up, but even the teams are asking for more. As MacLeod illustrates: "The Sri Lankans were feeling left out, so their team management made arrangements to send across some Sinhalese numbers. We have 300 of them now."

As I chat with him, MacLeod is editing a CD which contains New Zealand's most popular numbers, clipping them into five, ten and 30 second bits. "We always try and use the catchiest bits of the songs to be used according to the interlude. "If it's a four, we'll use a five-second bit, but if a wicket has fallen we can stretch it up to 30." For the Indian contingent, of course, there's the regular dose of Bhangra, with Bally Sagoo and Daljit Mattu leading the way.

MacLeod is also proud of another achievement: "We've introduced music into cricket. We were the first ones to do it in all forms of the game, including Test cricket. It's helped add flavour to the game," he says, and plays a track called Nkalakatha by Mandoza. It might not sound familiar to most, but for the followers of South African cricket, it is an anthem: "The song has been adopted by Shaun Pollock," he explains, which means that's the song which accompanies Pollock's walk to the middle, to bat or bowl. "No matter where people are in the ground - perhaps buying some food or beer - when they hear that song, they know Pollock is in business."

They try to follow that routine for every player and team, says MacLeod, and encourages all teams to list out specific songs that they would like played. "That's our way of making the foreign teams feel welcome in our country and in our grounds."

It isn't all fun and games, though. The aim is also to pass on cricket knowledge to the crowd through announcements in between the music. "We realise that lots of people in the stadium haven't seen a lot of cricket," says MacLeod, "so I started off with the most basic information: number of overs in a game, even number of balls in an over. Gradually, we've started to move to more technical stuff, like the fielding restrictions in place and the free-hit rule."

By the day of the final, the topic of discussion might just be the Duckworth-Lewis rain rule.

	Yuvraj Singh dazzled with the big hits in Durban on Wednesday © Getty Images

Those of us following the ICC World Twenty20 from Cape Town have been slightly envious of Durban over the last few days. On Wednesday, it had Yuvraj Singh's six sixes in an over and Thursday conjured up an enthralling turn of events that left South Africa dumped out of their own tournament – for the second time in four years.

Watching these matches has involved finding a suitable venue and in such a sports-mad city as Cape Town that's not a difficult task. However, when India took on England there were conflicts with rugby and football. In France, Italy were playing Portugal at the World Cup, but it seemed slightly odd as to why all the TVs in a pub on the Waterfront, Cape Town's famous tourist haunt, suddenly flicked over, until we found out the barman was Italian ...

After some negotiations, including a vote around the bar, it was agreed to put the cricket back on. That was until it turned out Manchester United were playing in the Champions League. Another brief conflict of interest occurred, but fortunately the same channel didn't have to be on each TV, so everyone was happy.

On Thursday evening there were no such issues. The home nation were playing in a match that could secure their passage to the semi-finals. But it didn't quite turn out like that.

As myself and two colleagues sat in a Mexican bar near to Newlands, following the day's double-header at the ground, a match unfolded that added another chapter to South Africa's lengthy list of chokes. Needing 154 to win, but 126 to qualify, the home side could only creak
to 116 for 9.

The reaction in the bar was surprisingly understated. There was the occasional exclamation at boundaries and wickets, but it appeared that three journalists were the most interested people around. Maybe it was professional duty, or possibly for the locals it was a depressingly
familiar turn of events.

	It was an Indian party at Kingsmead © S Rajesh

It wasn't a packed house at Kingsmead by any stretch of imagination - there were plenty of empty seats around the stadium - but those who were around were so vocal that the numbers didn't matter. And there was no question which team had the maximum support: it was an Indian night in every sense. Their supporters easily outnumbered England's fans, India's performance in the field outdid England's, and the dance numbers blaring from the loudspeakers were more Bollywood and bhangra than rock and hip-hop.

Funky B, the DJ at the ground, clearly knew her audience and even on a day of such exciting cricket, some of the loudest cheers were reserved for the music. Sometimes the cheers were so loud, and the groans when the music had to be stopped for play to resume so evident, that it seemed the crowd would rather be jiving to Bally Sagoo and co than watching the cricket.

That, of course, was before Yuvraj Singh came to the crease. The decibel levels increased after each six, and when the final one went into orbit, the crowd went crazy well before the ball cleared the ropes. Quite appropriately, the players went into the innings break with Chak De screaming over the speakers. Expect more of the same if the Indians get going in their final Super Eights game against South Africa on Thursday.

***

In the midst of such a deluge of fours and sixes, spare a thought for the cheerleaders, who were yo-yoing up and down from the stage almost every other ball through the Indian innings. In all, the Indians pelted 26 boundaries - 15 fours and 11 sixes - in 20 overs. And in the penultimate over it got especially demanding, as the dancers had to hop up and down after every ball - with the mood Yuvraj was in, they might as well have stayed up for the entire over. Not surprisingly, some of those cheerleaders were visibly short of breath during the innings break. It was a well-earned break, if there ever was one.

	Shane Watson wasn't too happy with his stint in the nets © Getty Images

Bowling at Australia's batsmen when they are trying to hit the cover off the ball wouldn't be top of most people's wish list, but for the net bowlers at Newlands it was an unforgettable experience.

The Australians offered them encouragement as they steamed in on a warm spring day. "Well bowled, mate," said Brad Hogg to a young quick bowler. "That would have been a good one in a match." Michael Clarke even had time to offer some advice to a bowler about his wrist position.

One of the youngsters, Gershwin from the University of the Western Cape, was later hand-picked by Shane Watson to come and bowl at him after the Australian allrounder had shifted between nets. "I want the guy in the South African top," said Watson. What did it feel like to be beckoned over by an international player? "Pretty good," said Gershwin, who continued to bowl at a brisk pace to Watson.

"We got the call to come and bowl at the Aussies," he added, "and it's been great fun. They all looked pretty good today."

Watson, though, appeared to be having a struggle with himself, constantly showing frustration at his stroke play. He picked up a hamstring injury shortly before the World Twenty20 and had to delay his flight to South Africa so he is short of match practice. He was given an imaginary field to bat against by Andrew Symonds. "Mid-off is up, fine-leg is back and the keeper is standing back," said Symonds.

When Watson connected the ball flew miles out of the nets, but he didn't seem to be enjoying the experience and slammed his bat on the ground after being bowled while trying to slog-sweep. But what matters is how he performs in the middle and, with Ricky Ponting injured, his chance could come against Sri Lanka. If he makes runs, he might be
hunting down Gershwin to say thanks.

	Supporters make their intentions clear ahead of the double-header at Newlands © Andrew McGlashan

There is a buzz around South Africa at the moment and as Graeme Smith said in yesterday's press conference "it's great to be part of it." The fans are certainly enjoying every moment of the ICC World Twenty20 and now they get the chance of back-to-back matches at Newlands.

Although South Africa play second, tickets are valid for both games so there was already a steady stream of people queuing up before the gates even opened at 12 pm. The question is, who do you support in a match not involving your own side? For Claus and Theo the answer was simple, and their banner explained all. "We support two teams, SA & any1 playing Aus".

It was a last-minute decision for them to paint the banner - they were knelt down on the pavement completing their artwork - and used a cigarette to burn holds along the edge. When they lifted it up there was an imprint on the tarmac, too. "That's what we were hoping for; we can use it as a template next time."

So Bangladesh will clearly have a few extra supporters. "For sure, there's history there," said Theo, referring to the hate-hate relationship between South African and Australian sports teams.

And the second match. "South Africa will win for sure. But England should at least score more than zero." No idea what he was referring to that time.

The dancers keep the party atmosphere going at the Twenty20 © Getty Images

If you've failed to notice the dancing cheerleaders in the World Twenty20 so far, you haven't been watching. The colour, noise and party atmosphere of this event has been led by khaki-clad dancers throwing shapes and getting the crowd going every time a boundary is hit. At the Wanderers, they've been kept fit.

"We love Sri Lanka, they make us work," says Jazz, 28, a female dancer from Cape Town. Ian, 23, one of her podium partners, is not so sure. "When the weaker teams play it is better, we get a breather."

In fact, the Twenty20 workload came as a surprise. They knew they'd be dancing every boundary and every wicket, but they didn't think it'd be that busy. "The opening was a rude awakening because we didn't think there would be too many fours and sixes, then first ball and we were dancing," explains Ian.

"You have to get into the whole vibe of things, and have a party with everybody else otherwise the day seems to take forever," says Ian. Jazz loves her audience: "The crowd are really getting into it, they have started counting us in - they scream 5, 6, 7, 8 - and then we start jiving
- it's very cool."

But do they like cricket? They are all professional dancers, selected from over 150 applicants for this gig, the audition was all about dancing and less the sport. Ian admits that it never really struck a nerve before: "I knew about it and the rules but I didn't enjoy the game, now the Twenty20
series is much more exciting, you can watch more. I will definitely go now. I wouldn't watch a five-dayer that would bore me - a day-nighter would do me."

Jazz is a fan and seems to enjoy the daily free tickets: "It is more exciting when you are at the stadium. And we have to watch the cricket when we are working otherwise we don't know when to go up!"

"It is important it looks good. The Rugby World Cup opening this year was appalling, it was rubbish and it was a world event. We are hosting the 2010 football World Cup, it is important to give a good impression of South Africa and what we can organise," says Ian.

So they're going to be busy? "There's loads of work for us - it is Africa time now," shouts Jazz.

	The youngsters strike a happy pose at the Wanderers © S Rajesh

The sun is out in all its splendour, there isn’t a hint of a cloud in the sky; a gentle breeze keeps the weather pleasant. It’s just about the perfect Saturday afternoon to be lazing out in the sun with family on the grassy embankments of the Wanderers, watching an entertaining Twenty20 game as a neutral spectator.

Which is exactly what Warren and some of his friends decided to do. They came well prepared too: the adults all had comfortable chairs in which to lounge and relax, while the kids were armed with cricket bat and ball, and enjoyed a hit before the big boys came out to play in the middle. Warren handed out many reasons why he’s a fan of Twenty20 cricket.

“Since the game lasts only three hours, I can bring my kids along without worrying about them getting bored. This is the only version I’d watch if South Africa isn’t playing. I know this match [between New Zealand and Sri Lanka] will be exciting, and it’ll be worth the money.”

Another big factor for coming to the cricket is the fact that the grassy embankment is a non-smoking zone, which doesn’t allow any alcohol to be brought in either. “I wouldn’t want any drunken louts making a scene with my kids around,” says Warren, and he has a point too.

What about the added razzmatazz, with the cheerleaders and the music? “I love it,” he enthuses. “Though my wife has warned if I look too long at the cheerleaders she’ll go up there and join them.” That’ll then be another reason for Warren to go to the cricket.
* * *

To bowl-out or not to bowl-out? The tied game between Pakistan and India was decided in that manner in Durban on Friday, and a quick survey was done to check how the format went down with the spectators in Johannesburg. The results were overwhelmingly in favour of it. “It’s great fun, and suits the Twenty20 game,” was the general refrain. There were a couple of dissenting voices, though, who reckoned it just wasn’t the right way to decide a cricket match. Next question to those dissenters: “Do you prefer Test cricket or Twenty20 cricket?” “Test cricket, of course.” That explains everything.

	Click for bigger image © Andrew McGlashan

Friday wasn't a great day to be an Englishman in South Africa. Firstly the cricketers were hammered by Australia then the rugby team failed to score a point against the Springboks in their World Cup match. The only surprise was that South Africa's points tally didn't pass the
half-century.

After the rout at Newlands was complete the question was whether it was worth watching another English sporting humiliation, to use a word Kevin Pietersen likes to throw around now and again. If England had really had a chance in France, sitting among the locals would have been a great evening, but with a hammering predicted from every corner the choice was a hotel bar near the cricket ground, which at least provided the balance of a fair few English folk.

The India-Pakistan Twenty20 match was on the screen in the build-up to the rugby, but 20 minutes before the game was due to start the barman asked for a show of hands. Unsurprisingly the rugby vote won, with a couple of a people even threatening to walk out if the channel wasn't changed.

SABC, the national free-to-air broadcaster, wasn't shy in showing where its allegiances lay as the four studio presenters sat proudly in their Springboks tops. You can't really imagine the same happening on Sky Sports, let alone the BBC.

It wasn't long before South Africa broke England apart with a breakaway try and when Mike Catt missed an attempted drop goal with the score at 10-0 there was a collective sigh of resignation from the England supporters. Half-time came and it was 20-0, not quite a cricket score but bad enough, and it was time to cut the losses.

Waiting for a taxi outside the hotel another English journalist walked past and said the India-Pakistan match had ended in a tie and been decided by a bowl-out. I knew we should have kept the cricket on.

Four days into this tournament and I am really enjoying it. I like South Africa. It’s difficult to put my finger on exactly why, but I like the people, who have a great sense of humour, and I like being in Africa. There is a mystery to this continent that excites me. And all this makes it a fantastic place to come and play cricket. People here have embraced the event and the organisers chose the ideal place to launch the inaugural tournament.

It has been good meeting the new coaching team, who all seem like very practical down-to-earth guys believing in a good old-fashioned work ethic. It's also a fun challenge getting to grips with a new format - a format we are keen to enjoy because we play our best cricket when we enjoy ourselves. But the highlight of my week was a visit to a school in Tembisa township about one and a half hours outside Johannesburg.

I occasionally get involved with UNAIDS when I tour around the world and this week I was invited to go visit the kids in this school. Jehan [Mubarak] and Upul [Tharanga] came along and we had a really fun day spending time with the kids. We chatted together and they also played some
cricket and rounders - they were really talented, by the way, especially the girls who gave the boys a good kicking. Anyway, the visit also had a serious purpose and we spoke about the
positive role sport can play for individuals, families and communities. It keeps you healthy and it helps instil discipline and responsibility, key ingredients in the struggle to control AIDS. By playing and enjoying sport, young kids can develop the inner strength and confidence to take
control of their lives and make better decisions for their futures.

Back on the field, today’s match was a pleasing start. We’ll need to tighten up some areas against the big boys, especially in the crucial first six overs in the field. But it was a joy to watch Sanath [Jayasuriya], a player that was born to play Twenty20. He could make a major impact in this tournament and was looking in great form. It was nice to break another record [largest margin of victory in international Twenty20 matches] too, but winning is the main objective and we have plenty of work ahead of us.

	The supporters had a blast even as rain played spoilsport © S Rajesh

The India-Scotland game may have been a non-starter, but there was no shortage of enthusiasm or colour at Kingsmead. A group of about 150 to 200 employees from Nokia in India had come along on a three-day, all-expenses paid trip. It was a pretty grand affair too – they’d been put up at the Hilton, overlooking the cricket ground.

The drizzle was incessant, but so were the antics that this group was up to. The Indian flag wasn’t in short supply, and every time the rains eased even slightly, huge cheers went up in the anticipation of the covers being removed. That it didn’t happen didn’t worry them either – there were other avenues to explore.

Sensing the mood in the crowd, the DJ sensibly switched to bhangra pop, which went down perfectly with this group. Many of them were soon on the grassy banks despite the rains, and when a group of Scottish supporters came over, the bonhomie – albeit after several glasses of beer – was clear for all to see.

As the evening wore on and chances of play became remote, the enthusiasm flagged off slightly, but the gang will have another opportunity to demonstrate their talents on Friday, when India take on Pakistan. Just how well they will bond with the equally passionate Pakistan fans remains to be seen, though.

England were going through their pre-match routines, having throw downs, catching practice and the like before facing Zimbabwe. Suddenly, they stopped and huddled around a figure lying, clearly in pain, on the outfield. It was serious enough, too, for the England medical team to signal for a stretcher.

Binoculars were quickly called into action to try and identify the injured party; which player it was? What impact on England's plans? Slowly each name was ticked off, then the answer arrived. Andy Flower, the batting coach, who had divided loyalties on the day, was the unfortunate person to go down and it was later confirmed as a serious calf strain. His adopted team will have eased the pain with their 50-run win, unless he was supporting Zimbabwe.

***

	The scoreboard at Newlands had a few problems with its display. Was it struggling to keep up with Kevin Pietersen's innings? © Andrew McGlashan

Newlands is about 20 minutes from the centre of Cape Town so it's a taxi ride before and after each game. Coming out of the ground after England's win over Zimbabwe, a taxi pulled up, but it already had two passengers so I presumed it wasn't mine. Then the driver got out and asked if I'd booked a car back into town before explaining he'd picked up this couple at the traffic lights, before the stadium, then realised they weren't his correct collection. But we were all heading in the same direction so it wasn't a problem and there was an amusing journey with Jonny and Sarah who had certainly been enjoy the Newlands hospitality.

Jonny was clearly struggling a little and made a valid point. "There's not much time to recover between these matches." And he wasn't talking about the players. He'd watched Australia beat Zimbabwe yesterday evening before returning for today's game. He also has tickets for England-Australia on Friday and said: "It could be a struggle, but it's great fun. The Aussies tried to steal the Barmy Army song in the first game, so we are going to get it back." Sounds like a battle on and off the pitch.

***

The scoreboard at Newlands had a few problems today. Maybe it was struggling to keep up with Kevin Pietersen's innings or, like the rest of us, was still trying to digest Zimbabwe's win over Australia. Whatever the reason, for the first part of England's innings and again during Zimbabwe's run chase it was in its own little world. The score went round in multiples, for example 111, 222, 333. It was somehow apt, then, when it landed on 666. England, thanks to Pietersen, were certainly rocking at the time and it wasn't only the dancers who agreed.

	Dennis Done did ball-by-ball way back in 1953-54 © S Rajesh

Technology has made such rapid strides that it’s difficult to imagine there was a time when, leave alone seeing live pictures of cricket matches, even getting live audio commentary was a struggle. During New Zealand’s tour to South Africa in 1953-54, it was decided that each of the five Test matches should have audio commentary reaching out to the cricket fans in New Zealand. The thought was excellent, but implementation was an issue: just a day before the first Test, SABC, the local broadcaster, realised the signals reaching New Zealand weren’t audible.

Enter Dennis Done, who is nearly 80 now but is still on the job, following the ICC World Twenty20 for SAPA. Back then he was with SABC, and upon him fell the task of implementing an innovative idea. The task, though, was humungous: it needed someone to write out the action which took place every ball, and then telex the information over to New Zealand, where it would then be read out as audio commentary.

	Done even got a mention in the New Zealand Listener for his effort (Click here for full size) © S Rajesh

Cricinfo’s ball-by-ball commentators will tell you how tough it to do a day’s commentary, but Done did it over five Test matches, writing out whatever happened on each ball by hand, and then telexing it across 10,000 miles. “So I have done commentary for five full Test matches without anyone else supporting me,” he says, “and people heard my commentary without hearing my voice. The lag was about six to seven overs, but it worked.”

His most lasting memory of the cricket, he says, is from the second Test, played over Christmas and Boxing Day at Ellis Park in Johannesburg. On the morning of the second day, news filtered in that Bob Blair, the New Zealand fast bowler, had lost his fiancée in a train crash. He was needed to bat on that day, though, and added 33 for the last wicket with Bert Sutcliffe. “Bob walked out with his head bowed and his bat dragging behind him,” Done recalls with a gleam in his eyes. “The crowd was absolutely quiet, so quiet that I was moved to write ‘The sound of a pin dropping here will reverberate across the entire stadium’.”

Done did a great job through the entire series, and was rewarded with a full page report on his performance in the New Zealand Listener. Today, of course, technology has ensured that the pen and paper approach has become almost redundant.

	The ground staff at Newlands are busy with last-minute preparations © Andrew McGlashan

With the match between Australia and Zimbabwe not starting until 6 pm, it seemed a good chance to get to the ground early and take a look at conditions. There has been plenty of concern about whether Newlands will be up to staging its portion of the Twenty20 matches and it's probably fair to say the centre square has looked better.

The three pitches that have been cut each have a mottled appearance and the strips either side are bare, which will make for some painful diving from the close fielders. The outfield has had to soak up a huge amount of water in recent months, and one corner takes the brunt as a run-off area. Areas of turf have been relayed, but it isn't quite the gleaming carpet produced at the Wanderers.

But regardless of everything, the saving grace of Newlands every time is the location. With the mountain in the background it is a readymade postcard and a tournament in South Africa wouldn't have been complete without matches here.

The ground was being prepared right up to the last minute, even down to touches of paint in one of TV studios. But the award for short-straw job has to go to the people walking around the boundary putting on all the sponsors’ stickers. It took them about three hours.

The ground staff also made every effort to ensure adverse conditions don't affect the game. A tractor went around the outfield spraying an anti-dew substance which has been used with success before at Newlands and at venues on the subcontinent. As much as possible has been done to get Newlands ready, now it's down to the players.

***

Collecting accreditation was the first job of the day and went easily enough even though there were more passport checks than going through the average airport immigration hall. After an hour's wait, holding a numbered ticket as though at a supermarket meat counter, I went forward.

All was going well until the assistant said: "Are you a doctor?" The response of "No" brought the reply "Well you are now." And there it was, officially down as Dr Andrew McGlashan. But apparently it wasn't deemed worthwhile reprinting the accreditation. And it wasn't just one misprinted, either. A fellow journalist on a local Cape Town paper has also had his title upgraded from Mr to Dr. But if anyone needs medical attention in the press box they had better look elsewhere.

	Gareth Grey and Nicholas Schilperoort arrive all dressed up for...cricket © S Rajesh

Gareth Grey and Nicholas Schilperoort are huge Twenty20 fans and there was no way they would miss the first day of the tournament. They were there well before time - and in special attire - to cheer their team, and their early reactions to the spectacle indicated that the ICC might have plenty of reason to pat themselves on the back.

Both of them agreed that this tournament had everything going for it. “It’s so colourful, it’s so much fun and the scale is much bigger than the domestic competition.” And it’s not that expensive either – Grey and Schilperoort had to shell out just R 100 per ticket, not a lot more than they would have paid for the domestic version. And they believed the pricing was justified too: the ticket gave them access to the opening ceremony too.

***

The opening ceremony wasn’t much, but it was, in a way, perfect for the tournament: it was loud, it was energetic, it had the crowd throbbing to its beat, and it ended quickly. There was no information provided on the band that provided the peppy percussion – the instruments ranged from the tabla to the congo to the drum set – but it set the stage quite perfectly. The cricket, of course, outdid the drum act, which was quite perfect too.

	Ominous clouds roll down Table Mountain © Andrew McGlashan

Flying out of Johannesburg this morning, the pilot announced smooth conditions all the way to Cape Town. Half-an-hour before landing he said there was a cold-front moving in and by the time we landed he warned us "it's not particularly nice out there, the wind is gusting to 45kph so hold on to your hats." The weather changes swiftly in these parts.

The last thing the ICC World Twenty20 needs is any intervention from the elements, although having said that any wash-outs are decided with a bowl-out, a nightmare for professional cricketers. But while staging matches in Johannesburg and Durban is a fairly safe bet at this time of year, Cape Town is a different matter.

They are coming out of one of their wettest winters and even some of the locals are saying it feels a bit too early for cricket. "Freezing" was a colleague's response when asked how he was after attending Australia's training session at Newlands.

During the afternoon, the clouds continued to billow down the sides of Table Mountain creating the effect know as the "table cloth." But fluffy white soon turned to ominous grey and by nightfall it was raining. There will be some anxious glances skywards over the next few days.

***

There is a massive amount of construction work take place throughout South Africa as the country gets ready to host the 2010 football world cup. Cape Town airport is growing new terminals while the transport network is being improved and new stadiums built. There is huge anticipation and the tournament will complete a full set of hosting the three major world cups following rugby in 1994 and cricket in 2003. They are counting down the days, literally. Leaving Cape Town airport there is a huge countdown clock: 1004 days to go.

***

Just as our flight was about to leave Johannesburg the captain came across with his usual pre take-off announcement. "Cabin crew seats for departure" before adding "and prepare for blast off." Even the pilots are getting into Twenty20 spirit.

	There'll be cheerleaders to celebrate each four, six and wicket © S Rajesh

If it's Twenty20, it has to be about music and dance. That's exactly what hit us the moment we entered the Wanderers early in the afternoon. The occasion: preparation for a brief opening ceremony on Tuesday. It's only likely to last about 15 minutes, but music and dance will be as integral to the game as bat and ball - there'll be cheerleaders to celebrate each four, six and wicket, while more music will accompany each batsman to the crease. It promises to be fun.

* *

Twenty20 is all about youth and energy, and there was plenty of both around in the morning at the ground. It wasn't all happy at the start,though. A group of about 20 children from the King David school in Linksfield came expecting to see some of their heroes - Jonty Rhodes, Makhaya Ntini, AB de Villiers and Herschelle Gibbs were all mentioned in the list - but were denied entry into the practice area by overzealous security. The wait was frustrating, but it paid off in the end, as permission was granted, access was allowed, and the kids chirped out with
dozens of autographs.

**

There was another group of kids for whom this trip to the Wanderers would
have perhaps meant even more. As part of the ICC's program with UNICEF, a
group of kids from the Johannesburg Child Welfare Society visited the
ground and spent time with the South African team. Graeme Smith and
Rhodes had a visibly enjoyable time offering catching practice to the
children, for whom this was probably one of their most unforgettable days.

The South African public is glued to the World Cup. You only have to
be in the country a matter of hours to hear the chatter and
expectation. But while the host nation kicks off the ICC World
Twenty20 against West Indies tomorrow, the tournament everyone is
already talking about involves an oval ball and is taking place
thousands of miles away in France.

Rugby is still the sport in South Africa and, although the
World Cup is running parallel the Twenty20, it won't be a contest over
which will draw most attention. The cricket will be done and dusted by
the time events in Europe really get interesting, but the clash
between the Springboks and England on Friday is whipping up a frenzy
in these parts.

"Your boys played well," grinned the man holding my name-board at the
airport, with a clear smirk on his face in reference to England's
28-10 win over USA, which was anything but inspiring. Then, in a master
of understatement, said: "It's a big one on Friday."

When Jonny Wilkinson kicked England to victory at Sydney four years
ago the cricket team was in Sri Lanka. The time difference meant they
weren't playing and the squad huddled around a TV in their hotel and
roared every kick. This time they will have a prior engagement to deal
with first, against none other than their fiercest rivals.

England-Australia in cricket is a clash as eagerly awaited as
England-South Africa in rugby, even when it's played over 20 overs.
However, a superb piece of planning (or good fortune) means the
Twenty20 encounter is due to run between 2pm-5pm (South African time)
which should give everyone plenty of time to find a suitable venue
before the 8pm kick-off in France. It will be an occasion when
everyone will agree that a 'quick game is a good game'.

	The deserted Wanderers two days before the start of the ICC World Twenty20 © S Rajesh

Call it the proverbial lull before the storm, but there's absolutely nothing happening at the Wanderers just two days before the start of the first ICC World Twenty20. That isn't entirely true, of course, for there are a lot of last-minute touch-ups in progress, but at first glance what catches the eye is just how quiet the place is. "It's a Sunday, a holiday, so no tickets are being sold today," says a guard at the gate. So what if that Sunday happens to be only 48 hours before kick-off.

The ground is in faultless condition, though. The outfield looks beautiful, and a walk around the field proves it is even better than it looks. That only means, of course, that India's glaring inadequacies will be exposed even further. Unless the infusion of new blood and the exclusion of some less agile fielders translates into a perceptible difference on the field. Or is that perhaps hoping for too much?

Meanwhile, apart from the exquisite outfield, what stands out is the colour in the stadium: the spaces between the stands have been done up with the Twenty20 logo, which, while looking awfully cluttered, serves the purpose of conveying excitement and frenzy.

Clearly, the Twenty20 fever isn't visible all over the city - the cab driver who drove us from the airport mistook the mention of the ICC World Twenty20 for the 2010 soccer World Cup. Never mind the cab driver, come Tuesday, and the Wanderers should be packed, with beer, music and everything else that this format attracts. The ignorance of the cab driver, and a few more like him, won't seem like much then.