Feeling the heat: England's tour of the Caribbean was memorable and closely fought © Getty Images

One final airport departure lounge, one final flight. England’s tour continues with the one-day series, but my stay in the Caribbean has drawn to a close. And what a way it finished, West Indies eight-down hanging on to regain the Wisden Trophy. I hoped for something memorable when I left home and haven’t been disappointed.

Congratulations to them, as well, and it must be hoped that this is the start of better times for the game in these islands. However, I have to admit that my patriotism was bubbling on that final afternoon as Graeme Swann and Jimmy Anderson chipped away at the wickets. It was one of those moments I wished I could have been sat in stands, but from a professional and impartial view West Indies deserved their success.

However, this tour has been about more than just the action on the field. I could hardly have imaged some of the stories I would be covering when I arrived Jamaica on February 2.

Never mind Jerome Taylor’s spell at Sabina Park, Antigua was where it really kicked off. I remember watching the game from Jamaica in 1998 that had to be abandoned because of a dangerous pitch, but never thought I’d see the same thing happen because of an outfield. Yet in the space of 36 hours the Test was moved from North Sound to the Antigua Recreation Ground. Those five days proved some of the best of the trip.

Then, of course, while we were in Antigua the Allen Stanford story broke and suddenly the worlds of business and cricket collided. There was a hurriedly arranged press conference with ECB chairman, Giles Clarke, next to the gents toilets and some of my colleagues on the newspapers were dispatched to do stories from the local banks.

Barbados allowed us all to talk cricket again (even if there wasn’t often much good news for England with Andrew Flintoff flying home) although everyone was fed up of runs by the time the Test at the Kensington Oval was finished. However, the news from Lahore put cricket firmly in perspective. Then the finale: after four days on a slow-burn the game erupted into life thanks to England’s last-ditch attempts to draw level.

As I was told before heading out on this trip, a tour to West Indies is also about the people you meet. There have been some great characters, from the taxi drivers who want to chat endlessly to my encounter with Gravy in Antigua.

The former players, too, were fascinating to spend time with and the moment that stands out is talking with Viv Richards after the debacle at the ground that carries his name. He was distraught, angry and sad. It was great to see him during the tense closing overs in Trinidad, pacing around like a true fan, and no one was more delighted with the series win.

The Caribbean’s love affair with cricket is still there, but the fans need to realise they will never have another team like the 1980s – however hard that may be to accept. This side needs to be given a chance to develop and as they have shown over the last six weeks big strides are being made.

So that’s that. Six weeks, four Tests (or actually five) and 1-0 to West Indies. Great stories, great memories and a great experience. When I left London it was snowing. Hopefully it’s warmed up a bit when I land back at Gatwick.

The Queen’s Park Oval has struck me as a funny sort of ground. Not in a bad way, but in an interesting way. It is how I imagined Caribbean stadiums to be, a bit of a hotch-potch of stands but full of character.

In that way it is a little like the ARG as opposed to the manufactured monstrosity at North Sound. Redevelopment work was done prior to the 2007 World Cup, but the stands haven’t been replaced by concrete blocks. The main work was done on the pavilion, renamed earlier this match under Brian Lara’s name, and last year floodlights went in. So the ground has been brought up to modern levels yet still retains the older charm.

There is grass banking that runs around the boundary, but no beach this time. The pool that was in occupation at Kingston and the Kensington Oval would no doubt have been a welcome addition as the visiting fans sweated in the heat and humidity, although there are few complaints when they see the forecast from back home.

The most famous part of the ground is the Trini Posse Stand (although, sadly, it hasn’t been able to escape commercialisation) and it provides plenty of entertainment. The lower level is well packed with England fans who have enjoyed the presence of the energetic dancing girls. During lunch intervals they join in with the singing and dancing, although quite what the locals make of their efforts is unclear.

Again it has been a shame to see so many empty seats, although the way West Indies went about their cricket on the first two days certainly wasn’t a crowd-puller. Apparently the Twenty20 here next weekend will be a sell-out, so it seems the sort, sharp burst of action is what they want.

However, there was a valid reason for one of the sections to be completely vacant on the third morning. The top level of the RBTT Stand was closed after it was found that the staircase which runs up the side was coming away from the structure. Everyone with tickets was shifted to the Dos Santos and Jeffrey Stollmeyer Stands, but apparently the problem will be solved in time for the Twenty20 by some simple welding. They may just want to double check it when they’ve finished.

	'It makes it a much prouder achievement. It was a small country before and now it is even tinier and having someone from Montserrat represent the West Indies is quite a good achievement' © Getty Images

When you’ve had to run away from an erupting volcano, the challenges of bowling to international batsmen cannot seem quite as daunting. Lionel Baker was 10-years-old and at home on the tiny island of Montserrat when the Soufriere Hills volcano began to erupt on July 18, 1995.

He still talks about the moment when his island was devastated in a very matter-of-fact way. "The volcano erupted on the east side and I’m from the north side so I didn’t have to move or change houses so I was quite lucky,” he said. “It wasn’t anything to do with running away from the lava, it was more like a pyroclastic flow. It’s more terrifying than the lava and harder to deal with.”

When the volcano blew it destroyed the capital Plymouth and thousands had to flee their homes. Baker was one of the lucky ones, his home was far enough away that it escaped damage but some of his friends weren’t so fortunate.

“We didn’t lose anything at all so were quite lucky. I know a couple of friends who lost houses, cars everything they own and everything they’d built,” he said. “Some of them had just finished building a new house and it all got swept away.

“It makes it a much prouder achievement. It was a small country before and now it is even tinier and having someone from Montserrat represent the West Indies is quite a good achievement.”

No wonder the island has recognised Baker’s achievement in becoming the first international cricketer from Montserrat. Baker Street would normally conjure up images of Sherlock Holmes, but the local government were so proud when Baker made his West Indies debut that they honoured him with his own road.

“I was away in New Zealand, I phoned home and someone told me I had the street named after me,” he said. “It was the street where in the afternoon I used to go and played wind-ball cricket. I was always there.”

Baker’s international career is so far limited to two Test and six one-day internationals. But even to develop one top-level player is a notable achievement for an island whose population is just under 6000. There are only six countries in the world smaller than Montserrat – The Falkland Islands, Niue, Tokelau (both tiny Pacific islands), Vatican City and the Pitcairn Islands.

“It’s a big achievement for me, my family and the people of Montserrat,” Baker said. “I’m very proud and overwhelmed to be the first in history.”

Cricketers have had to leave the island to try and forge their careers although facilities have now returned to allow Baker to train and practice when he returns home. He spent two years at school in England and then played club and county cricket. He had a deal with Leicestershire, but once his West Indies call-up came along he had to ditch that because he no-longer qualified as a local player using his British passport.

And he hopes he won't be the only player to hail from the island. "There are a few good youngsters so hopefully they can follow me into the team."

Baker had to sit on the sidelines and wait during the England series to earn a recall, but was eventually brought back for the final Test in place of the injured Jerome Taylor. “It’s frustrating, but you can still watch and learn,” he said. When you’ve seen your home country pushed to the brink of destruction, everything else comes as a bonus.

	International players who haven’t toured Pakistan, won’t be going any time soon © PA Photos

A text message landed at 1am – I never turn my phone off, it’s a bad habit – and it simply said. “Have you seen the news?” A couple more messages and quick flick onto CNN revealed what it was all about.

Even thousands of miles away in Barbados the ripple effect of the terror attack on the Sri Lanka team was being felt. One person had reason to feel very closely effected as Stuart Broad’s father, Chris, was in one of the mini-buses attacked.

In the hotel lobby the news channel was on and it was all people wanted to talk about over breakfast. Nobody was discussing the run-feast at the Kensington Oval. By mid-morning both boards had issued statements.

In the airport departure lounge both squads and their officials were waiting for their flight to Trinidad. I spoke to one WICB board member about the morning’s events and the consequences were already clear in his mind. Some of the players waiting by the gates had also toured Pakistan at one time or another. Those who haven’t won’t be going any time soon.

But it doesn’t seem quite right to say too much about events so far away, other than to try and show how the impact is global.

*****

This series goes on as normal and we are now in Trinidad ahead of the final Test. I had to have a little smile when I found out the team’s charter flight had been delayed. They were due to leave around 10am, but both squads were sat with ipods on and laptops out trying to kill time, while their plane was stuck in Port of Spain. So much for avoiding the travel hassles.

Mine was a simple trip via Grenada and the fourth and final island on my journey provides another host of experiences. The first thing to strike you is the extra humidity; it really does feel quite tropical helped by the lush, green forests that cover the hills.

My guest house is set in the hills just north of Port of Spain and the journey from the airport took us past the Queen’s Park Savannah where a number of cricket games were starting, a slightly less packed version of the maidans in Mumbai.

A notable factor is the traffic. There is so much of it. I was warned about the jams before arriving and they didn’t disappoint. The other thing that stood out was the four-lane highway, because it’s the first road wider than two lanes I’ve seen in a month. Perhaps it shouldn’t be a surprise that roads are bigger here – Trinidad’s south-west coast is home to the world's largest natural reservoir of asphalt.

And they are building more, with an unfinished on-ramp curving over the carriage way at one point, bringing to mind that scene from Speed where Sandra Bullock and Keanu Reeves leap the gap in a bus. Don’t think I’ll be trying anything so dramatic, although it might be a good way to beat the traffic.

Being an England fan on tour should be classed as an endurance sport and not just because the team often make it a tough experience. It’s quite possible that some of the people watching the action on Sunday morning haven’t actually been to bed.

Saturday night in Barbados isn’t for sleeping – although I should add here that my evening ended around 11pm after a curry and a few beers [yeah right, Ed]. How boring, but I’m not a morning person at the best of times so a rough head isn’t a pleasant prospect when, apparently, I'm here to work.

Anyway, at breakfast a small group of lads were sat on the table opposite dressed in England tops, tucking into bacon and eggs. They looked a little worse for wear and indeed had got back to the hotel at 5.30am and woke at eight.

The efforts of the travelling contingent have certainly impressed the locals more than England’s bowling. “They have beer for breakfast, plenty through the day then top it up at night,” said Chris on the front desk. “But we rarely get any bother, they are just here for a good time.”

And that is a common sentiment. In the main, the locals enjoy welcoming England cricket fans to town. They certainly don’t arrive with the reputation that proceeds certain groups of football followers and it also means a bumper few days of work.

Our taxi driver after the third day’s play said he’d been a security guard at the Kensington Oval during the World Cup and had been asked to do it again for this Test. “But it’s more lucrative for me to drive my taxi and pick you all up,” he said.

There will certainly have been a high demand for taxis on Saturday night. You’ve barely been able to move down at St Lawrence Gap in the recent days as the visitors make the most of an island that is happy to open their doors to them. No wonder the stands were a little quieter this morning, but they’ll be back to full voice soon enough. Now, make mine a Banks.

	Andrew Strauss earned a standing ovation from the British crowd after his first-day hundred © Getty Images

The Brits are out in force again. The stands at the Kensington Oval are a sea of red, white and blue. Luton Town are in the house, as are Tom and Dan from Potter's Bar. It’s only a few typos away from being the Kennington Oval.

Barbados 2009 (and for all England tours since the mid-90s) is the reverse of what was seen in London during the 1970s and 1980s. As the all-conquering West Indies – the Harlem Globetrotters of world cricket – blasted away all before them, they were cheered on by crowds full of West Indian fans when they played at The Oval in south London.

Last time West Indies visited The Oval, however, there was barely a supporter in the crowd shouting for them, and while the locals are trying to make themselves heard in Bridgetown they are fighting against the tide.

It’s a shame in many ways. A couple of times in this series we have glimpsed what a strong local crowd can add to the action. On the fourth day at Sabina Park and the final day at the ARG, the home side were cheered to the rafters. But there appears to be a wait-and-see approach. Maybe it comes from the inconsistent nature of West Indies – the supporters are still not sure which side will turn up.

A piece on Cricinfo the other day, by my editor Sambit Bal, talked about the passion of taxi drivers being a window into the passion for cricket in this country. That passion is still there, but not quite with the strength that once was the case, as people struggle to accept a team that doesn’t win consistently.

However, they don’t always help the situation themselves. On a local radio phone-in the night before the Test, one caller said West Indies needed to revive the days of Garry Sobers. Heck, that’s going back a long way. Great eras, by definition, don’t come along very often and this current side needs to respected for more modest achievements.

The cost of a ticket to the opening day here was $80 Barbadian, which is $US40 (or about £30). Not dirt cheap by any measure, although apparently not out of reach of huge numbers in Barbados, one of the wealthier Caribbean islands. Still, why not drop prices? It’s a common cry, but the problem is that the stands are packed by visitors quite happy to pay those prices so the local board is going to want to milk it.

That sounds unfair, but as Chris Gayle said before the match, cricket is now “becoming a business". The bottom line is what matters, and sadly that is coming at the cost of the true West Indian experience.

	Tino Best: still has ambitions to play for West Indies © Getty Images

He was wearing a basketball top, a baseball cap and a bit of bling. The face looked familiar, but not instantly recognisable. Then someone shouted over “Tino.”

When England toured West Indies in 2004 they faced a quick bowler who was determined to make a name for himself. Tino Best didn’t do things by half and on removing Graham Thorpe, at Sabina Park, for his first Test wicket he sprinted towards the catcher a fine leg before lying, arms out-stretched, on the ground in celebration.

“Cricket should always be played that way, but also in the right spirit,” he said. “I remember some battles with Mr Flintoff and battles with Nasser [Hussain] and Thorpe. The best batsman I ever bowled at was Graham Thorpe. He’s a guy I rated really high from when I was a youngster so it was the best feeling ever to get him out.”

Mr Flintoff? Clearly there was plenty of respect there. "He’s a great entertainer," Best said. "Just look at the Test that has just finished [in Antigua], he had an injury and he had the determination that every cricketer should have."

However, while Best is remembered for making the England batsman hop around, many prefer to recall his performance with the bat in the following summer’s Test at Lord’s. With West Indies sliding to defeat in the second innings Best came out swinging, especially at Ashley Giles, but after middling a couple Flintoff, who was stood at slip, came out with the line: “Mind the windows, Tino.” Next ball, Best had a huge heave and was stumped. Flintoff didn’t even try to contain his laughter.

“I didn’t really hear him say anything,” Best said. “The thing was whenever I faced Ashley Giles in the Caribbean I used my feet to him and hit him over the top. They were chatting to me, but I couldn’t really understand what they were saying.

“I just played my shots, missed it and then heard them talking about windows. The guys in the dressing room said had I not heard it? It’s a big joke now and I just laugh it off.”

Best ended the England series in the Caribbean with 12 wickets at 25.08, but that Lord’s Test was his only outing in the return contest. He played just four more matches before being discarded by the selectors and has since thrown his lot in with the Indian Cricket League.

“It had a lot to do with the coaching, I was never comfortable with the set-up,” he said. “After I got injured they tried to change my action and that didn’t work. That is one of the most uncomfortable feelings, when you don’t like your action. It really hurt me.

“I was meant to go to New Zealand in 2006 and I turned up at the airport and there was no ticket for me. A lot of things like that disappointed me. But it has just made be get stronger. I’m only 27 and could come back."

Best retains hope that the ICL situation will be resolved, although the recent outcome (or lack of) at the meetings in Johannesburg suggests it won’t happen. But he still has ambitions of resuming his international career, and certainly doesn’t lack confidence in his own ability.

“I’m still the quickest bowler in the Caribbean. Ask any of the local commentators and they’ll say that. I have one of the best records for Barbados and I’m still the quickest without a doubt.

“I don’t want to disrespect Daren Powell, but he is looking a bit tired and that is my spot. It would be great to run in with Fidel [Edwards] again.”

For all his brashness, bullishness and bling a return to the top level is looking like a pipe dream. The best has probably been and gone.

Two days at Windward Park was a pleasant distraction from what has
been a Test series full of controversy, surprise and intrigue. The
players appeared to enjoy a less pressurised atmosphere and they were
cheered on by a healthy crowd, certainly on the Sunday as people made
their most of their weekend to enjoy a few beers and rums at the
cricket.

Not that there was a shortage of stories. Ravi Bopara and Amjad Khan
impressed after their 41-hour journeys from New Zealand, while Matt
Prior received news of his new baby and flew home. Not quite what
England needed ahead of a must-win game, but this tour has never
really gone to plan.

One of the highlights of the two-day game was some of the names on
show in the President’s XI team. Without a doubt the most eye-catching
was the opening bowler Barrington Bjorn Beckenbauer Yearwood. His
parents must been a fan of the former England batsman, have liked
tennis (or maybe Abba) and enjoyed German football.

But it’s back to the serious business now, and for England that means
trying to level the series and set up a decider in Trinidad. They
couldn’t have asked for a better venue. The redevelopment of the
Kensington Oval has been done in a way that has modernised the ground
but retained character - although it does look a little odd having one
side with no stands.

The Worrell, Weekes and Walcott Stand looks a little like the Lord’s
media centre and the only shame is that they have closed in the press
box which was open-fronted for the World Cup. At least it should cut
down on my sun burn.

England will also have huge support to cheer them on. This is a
must-see Test for many fans who travel overseas and plenty have been
spilling into town over the last few days, filling the bars of St
Lawrence Gap on the south coast. They probably won’t have expected the
heavy showers that blew across Bridgetown for much of the day, but
hopefully they will have cleared by Thursday.

One final point to mention. They are building a beach at the ground
and after the debacle in Antigua surely sand is the last thing people
want at a cricket stadium. Thankfully, this time it’s on the right
side of the boundary – the outfield couldn’t be better.

	The pavilion at the 3Ws Oval in Barbados © Andrew McGlashan

If the most drastic reports are to be believed the West Indian domestic structure is being held together by sticking plaster. Neither the one-day or four-day tournaments have sponsors after KFC and Carib Beer ended their deals, while the WICB have had to delve into their own reserves to keep the competitions going.

So I thought it would be a good idea to try and grab a brief experience of the domestic scene. As one or two people will testify, I have a passing interest in county cricket back home. So how do the two compare?

Given the tight tour schedule and the two extra days in Antigua it was fortunate that there was a four-day game going on in Barbados as I arrived in the country. The Combined Colleges and Campus side was taking on Leeward Islands at the 3W's Oval, the University of West Indies' ground on the Cave Hill campus, just north of Bridgetown.

As I turned up it was the end of the lunch interval and the umpires were making their way back out. There was a double-take moment, because one of them was Richard Kettleborough, the English umpire, who is here on an exchange programme to help local officials.

It was hard to judge the standard, but these two sides aren't the best examples. CCC, as their title would suggest, are no better than the university sides that pretend to play first-class cricket in England. Leeward Islands, once such a strong team, are now one of the weakest of the main sides.

The WICB have expanded their first-class structure this season, but it is hard to see what benefit there is having a team like CCC take part. If a few of the players were good enough, they would be in the main island team. A very telling factor is that the first-class bowling averages are dominated by spinners, some of whose figures have probably been flattered by the type of batting that helped Anthony Martin collect three scalps here.

Without sponsors there was a hotch-potch collection of kit among the players. Those who had played for West Indies, including Omari Banks and Lionel Baker, wore their Digicel branded tops, some wore their club kit and others had no branding at all. The manual scoreboard was operated by two hard-working people, but speed wasn't always of the essence. "Scoreboard, it's now 66 for 1," announced the PA system.

The crowd was virtually non-existent, although again it wasn't quite a fair comparison because this wasn't the main Barbados team. However, county cricket is criticised for a lack of attendance, but it remains the best supported domestic scene in the world.

The ground itself is an education (as it should be being a university) with enough names to make the best part of a West Indies all-time XI. Alongside the great trio that give the venue its name – Everton Weekes, Frank Worrell, and Clyde Walcott – the two ends are named
Ramadhin/Valentine and Holding/Roberts. Throw in the George Headley room in the pavilion and there's enough to rival the ICC's Hall of Fame. And just to add to the scholarly feeling, across the road is the CLR James centre for cricket research.

The dozen or so people who were sat in the pavilion began a heated debate on West Indies' batting order with Devon Smith seemingly at the centre of the argument. Whenever a wicket fell they would also have plenty of advice for the batsman, bemoaning how the 'kids' have no
patience these days. Occasionally a small batch of people would come in from elsewhere on campus, such as the martial arts training that was taking place behind the ground, and as has been noticeable here and in Antigua everybody knew everybody else.

Then, as tea approached, the clouds rolled in and it started to rain. So maybe it was just like county cricket, after all.

The waves were crashing on the south coast of Barbados as I pulled into my latest hotel, but will this leg of the tour provide calmer waters? The 11 days in Antigua produced some extraordinary stories – from the sandpit at North Sound, the move to the ARG, Allen Stanford's fraud investigation and West Indies' gusty effort to save the Test.

The departure from Antigua proved a final intriguing moment from a crazy week. As we pulled up to the airport we drove past Stanford's grand office buildings, the Bank of Antigua and, of course, his cricket ground. The lights were still on in the Sticky Wicket bar, but it's safe to say no one was at home.

In some ways it was almost a relief to arrive in another country. That is one of the fascinations of touring West Indies as each island you arrive on is something new. I'm a bit of a fan of filling my passport up, too, so all the extra stamps are a bonus. All the immigration officers so far have noticed the job title I put down as journalist and quickly start talking about the cricket. They are incredibly disappointed when I tell them I'm actually here to cover a farming convention.

Although there are many things to link all the Caribbean islands, each is also subtly different. Flying in over the west coast of Barbados you have a great few of some of the prime real estate. Massive houses with extravagant pillars and balconies lined the shore and vast hotel
complexes, which look like small towns, prepare to welcome the well-off travelling support.

Michael Vaughan has a house on the island and given England's current injury problems it might not be a bad idea for him to fly out just in case. It would certainly been an easier journey than Amjad Khan and Ravi Bopara have had to make from New Zealand. Those two are going to
struggle to know what time it was when they arrive.

As for me, well it's been the usual list of things to sort. Another hotel check-in, another new sim card and another call to my bank to unblock my card which gets barred every time I try and use it in a new place. I'm very grateful for my bank's anti-fraud measures, but I couldn't help chuckle as they ran through my statement confirming all the transactions were mine.

Election fever has hit Antigua (and Barbuda). There is much for the people of these small islands to think about and two huge issues have reared their heads over the last week. First there was the pitch debacle at the Sir Vivian Richards Stadium, for which some have laid the blame at the government's door, then there was the far more serious issue of Allen Stanford.

Bringing back images of when Northern Rock lurched into trouble in the UK, there were queues snaking around the Bank of Antigua on Wednesday as people tried to grab hold of their savings – or at least make sure they are safe. A colleague, perhaps tongue-in cheek, I couldn't quite tell over instant messenger, asked me if I had enough cash for my last few days before heading to Barbados. There goes that slap-up meal down on the harbour tomorrow night.

Baldwin Spencer, the Antigua and Barbuda prime minister who I spoke with earlier in the week about the North Sound fiasco, announced the general election for March 12 during a live radio address on the evening that Stanford's fraud charges became public. "If ever there was a reason and a time for the Antiguan and Barbudan people to come together in solidarity that time is now," he said.

The two parties involved in the election are the UPP (currently in power) and Labour. It has been impossible to miss the campaigning while here in Antigua with huge billboards on nearly every street, rallies being organised and most lampposts swathed in blue and red wrapping. Apparently each party has taken to trying to cover up each others colours.

People also drive around playing campaign pledges over loudspeakers attached to cars and buses. Maybe Gordon Brown and David Cameron should jump onboard the number 72 along Oxford Street?

While people expected the election soon, it surprised many when it was announced on the radio. My hotel manager said it had been expected to be launched live on TV during a UPP rally.

I'm no political expert – that A-level seems a long time ago – but take more than a passing interest in such things. It has been fascinating to see how much of this island is actively involved in the election. And after my stay here, I'll be taking more than a passing interest in the result next month.

	It's almost like Twenty20 ... but where can I get some mobile credit? © Getty Images

Despite a three-year gap in hosting Tests the ARG has looked pretty much as everyone remembered it. One detail, though, is not quite the same.

The party stand, the large double-decker structure to the left of the pavilion, hasn't been able to live up to its name. Before the match started there was a suggestion that the stand had been condemned and couldn't be used. Then they were just going to use the bottom, before finally announcing they would open the entire structure.

Still, though, the authorities weren't convinced enough to allow Chickie and his disco back in there. Perhaps that's not surprising, it does look a rather ropey structure. In fact, the day before the game a welder was busy making a few last-minutes repairs. It was a case of no sudden movements for the fans who sat there.

So what about Chickie and the entertainment? He has been found a new home by the scoreboard and certainly hasn't let the crowd down. At the end of each over, the fall of each wicket, and even each boundary, the music is pumped out. It's almost like Twenty20.

An interesting collection of tunes make their way out, ranging from a bit of Queen, to a taste of Abba via a quick flavour of Boy George. There is plenty of local flavour, too, and by mid-afternoon the England fans were dancing to anything as the runs flowed. At one point it turned into a contest between Chickie and the Barmy Army.

However, what makes the ARG different was around the corner. Just because play has ended doesn't mean the music stops. Actually, people come into the ground just to party and the speakers are cranked up a few notches.

About an hour after the close he finally announces: "It's time for me to go now, but I'll be back tomorrow." He also warns people to be careful as they leave. I doubt he did that before. Maybe health and safety have got to him.

******

Michael Holding was 55 on Monday and was also inducted into the ICC Hall of Fame alongside Andy Roberts and Viv Richards. Thirteen of the current 55 inductees are West Indians, highlighting what an immense part they have played in world cricket.

This ceremony was due to take place on Saturday, the second day of the second Test, but of course that game lasted 10 balls to sort of ruin all the ICC's best laid plans. However, never fear, they wouldn't miss out.

After being presented with commemorative caps by Julian Hunte, the WICB president, the trio went on a lap around the ARG with the healthy crowd standing. Their career highlights were also read out over the PA system, but someone perhaps underestimated everything the three had achieved. Viv's career took two thirds of the lap to complete and by the time Holding's had been wrapped up the players had long since moved on.

*****

I needed to top up on some mobile credit today. Simple enough you may think. So I popped outside the ground during the lunch interval and spotted a stall display a sign saying credit available. "Can I have $20 worth," I ask only to be met with: "We don't sell credit, have to try the chemist down the street."

This wasn't a major issue, but as I turned away I heard one man say: "So why don't you take your bloody sign down." He had a point.

Finally this series is back into full swing. It's the third Test, but really it's the second, because the second one we had two days ago lasted 10 balls. Still following? It's been a crazy few days.

The outfield was bumpy, the run-ups a little damp, some of the seats a bit wobbly and the press box a little cramped, but none of that mattered. The music was at full volume, the England flags were draped around the ground and the atmosphere was electric.

There were cheers for the toss, for the first ball, for the first run, for the first boundary. They grew louder each time. When England passed 51 there was almost a standing ovation, and later the ground rose as one to acclaim Andrew Strauss's century. It was a day of 'I was there' moments to add to quite a list from the last week.

The great and good turned out for the occasion. Viv, of course, was there and looking a lot happier than two days ago. "This is how it should be," he said. Curtly Ambrose was there (and seemed even taller) while doing some radio work and the Benjamins, Winston and Kenny, were seem arm-in-arm on the outfield.

The prime minister of Antigua, Baldwin Spencer, was also at the ground to soak up the moment, but he also has the job of finding out why it reached this stage.

"It was most unfortunate what happened at the Sir Vivian Richards stadium, but we got this ready quickly," he told Cricinfo. "We were concerned about the thousands of tourists who had come to Antigua and we couldn't afford a situation where they would have needed to leave and not see any cricket.

He has also promised that the government would take charge of the investigation. "We will certainly put the necessary mechanisms into place to make sure the investigation can take place."

But the day was all about making the best out of a bad situation and the ARG managed it. "It's certainly a nostalgic feeling, it reminds me of those wonderful days at the ARG," the prime minister said. "And the fact that we were able to transform it in 36 hours to host a Test match, that clearly demonstrates the resilience of the Antigua and Barbuda people."

So what about the longer term? The locals clearly want Test cricket back 'home'. The common feeling among many people you ask is that the ground at North Sound is "a load of b*****ks" to quote my taxi driver.

"Clearly the situation has to be investigated going forward. I don't think that should lead to a situation where Test cricket can no longer be played at the [SVR] stadium," the Prime Minister said. "As far as the ARG is concerned I'd always stated that this ground should be in a position to hold cricket at the highest level.

"I still believe the Sir Vivian Richards Stadium can meet the required standard as far as the pitch and outfield is concerned."

However, even if the stadium was fit for action it is unlikely the locals would attend. "A lot of people are glad to see cricket back here. Sometimes circumstances allow for something to happen that you'd never anticipated," admitted the PM.

An hour after play, DJ Chickie was still blasting out the music as people drank and danced into the evening. They were celebrating the return of a long lost friend.

	The groundsman's biggest challenge © Getty Images

"I always believed Test matches were going to come back to the ARG," said a tired, but proud Keith Frederick. However, he would never have believed the scenario which sees international cricket back in St Johns after three years. It's been a surreal few days in Antigua as a Test has been moved to a new venue in less than 48 hours.

When it was announced on Friday that the second Test at the Sir Vivian Richards stadium had been abandoned, Frederick sensed what was about to happen. For the past day-and-a-half he has become the most important man as far as the short-term future of this series is concerned. "I was at the [SVR] stadium watching the game and when I learnt the game was off I quickly jump in my car and left. I suspected this might happen."

He immediately set to work preparing a pitch and bringing the outfield – dominated by a football pitch – up to a playable standard. He has worked on the ground for many years, but as we chatted on the edge of the square it is clear how much this surface means to him. "This is a very special pitch," he said. "Not only is the reputation of Antigua at stake but also West Indies. I'm very happy to be involved in getting the ground ready.

"I think it can be as good as some of the pitches we have produced here over the years," he added confidently. "This wicket should be interesting, I think the ball will bounce nicely and carry well. The bowlers should enjoy it."

That hasn't always been the case at the ARG, a ground with more than its fair share of batting records. But it won't need centuries to make this match memorable. So long as the surface proves safe everyone should be hugely grateful for Frederick's efforts. Without this second ground in Antigua, the series would have had to be shifted to another island, or even reduced to a three-match affair.

What makes his work even more extraordinary is that three weeks ago the ARG was basically a field. "I'm absolutely overjoyed with the condition it is in now," he said. "On January 25, if you'd come here you would have seen a field and wouldn't have believed that this transformation could be made. There was no pitch at all, just rough grass, and you wouldn't have been able to tell me where the pitch was."

Despite everything that has gone into this last-minute preparation Frederick said he wasn't the type of groundsman who got nervous about his 22 yards. "It should be good game," he added. The fact that there's any game at all is in no small part to him.

Being driven around Antigua is an interesting experience. White lines appear an optional extra outside of the capital, St John's, and are mainly used for marking the popping crease. Pot holes are deep, occasionally verging on cavernous, and there are endless blind bends. But it's a heck of a lot of fun.

After a couple of England's training sessions this week I have opted to use the local bus service to return to my hotel and it has added a whole new dimension to the journey. And when I say local buses, don't think about the 275 along Uxbridge Road.

In Antigua it is a mini-bus type vehicle. For anyone who has been to South Africa, picture the vans you can jump on board to whizz around Cape Town. Occasionally those come without steering wheels so the driver can fit in an extra passenger and, while the Antigua version is less extreme, the principle remains the same.

To begin with there is no set timetable. The buses just leave when they are full. And by full, I mean not being able to squeeze in another person. As in any mini-bus there are rows of seats, but at the end of each is another fold-down seat and each of these gets filled as well, plus the two next to the driver. So by the time you leave the stand it's like a can of sardines. Spare a thought for the person sitting on the back row in the far right corner – there is no swift exit for them.

Normally, though, it works out that an early drop-off will free up a seat and then it becomes like one of those puzzle games where you have one free block and have to move all the other pieces around. When someone shouts "bus stop" it often requires some severe logistics to allow the person from their seat.

Then there is the actual driving. Antiguan roads aren't busy (at least by London standards) but they bring with them their own set of challenges. I've noticed that people have a habit of just liking to stop rather randomly on the side of the road, causing some sudden braking and manoeuvring.

These mini-buses aren't always the most responsive of vehicles, either, especially when weighted down with a full load. Overtaking is particularly interesting, especially when the option is taken on a blind bend, while going up hill, with a van that is surely loaded with more than it is made for. But each time we make it and continue on our way.

Hills and valleys provide something of a challenge while the van is fully laden, and at one point it almost feels like it needs a push to reach the top. However, once we chug our way up the driver makes the most of a tail wind – and gravity – and floors it down the other side.

The passengers quickly begin to disembark as we pass through the centre of the island and towards the south coast. The occasional person hops on board (and the driver seems to know everyone, as is a general way in Antigua) but by the time my stop approaches it is just me left. I still shout 'bus stop', just because I want to, and he quickly pulls up at the side of the road. I jump off, slam the door and he speeds away. St Johns to Falmouth harbour, the north of Antigua to the south, in 30 minutes. On a bad day on Uxbridge Road I'd have gone half a mile.

Stand 16 at the West taxi station in St John's. My taxi driver said I wouldn't be able to miss him. Sure enough, as I wander through the parked cars all I have to do was say one name: "Gravy."

Labon Kenneth Blackburn Leeweltine Buckonon Benjamin – it's a good job his mother came up with the nickname, because his full version would never have caught on. As I walk up to his store, which sells everything from bolts to batteries to beer – "the hardware is in the back," he later says – Gravy is on his mobile, no doubt getting the latest gossip ahead of the Test.

There have been frequent, heavy showers around Antigua over the last 24 hours. "Mention the cricket in Antigua and the rain comes," Gravy says. "I spoke to the groundsman the other day and he said everything would be okay."

Gravy became known all over the cricketing world for his dancing exploits at the ARG (Antigua Recreation Ground), which he made his home from 1988 until retiring in 2000. He is almost as famous as the players he supported for all those years, but when I put that to him he says: "That's not a very good sign, is it?"

The beard is a bit whiter these days, but his passion for the game hasn't dimmed just because he no longer struts his stuff in the stands. The last time he 'performed' at the ARG he wore a wedding dress. "I wanted to go out on a high," he said, "so people would remember me." Like anyone would ever forget.

But with another Test match around the corner does he miss his days entertaining the crowds? "Not at the new ground," he says. "It would never be as much fun." That echoes the view of many fans in Antigua, who have shunned the new Sir Vivian Richards Stadium. "They should never have moved," Gravy adds.

Gravy must get hundreds, even thousands of visitors, coming to his stall not because they want to buy something but because they want to meet a legend. Yet he is more than happy to pose for a picture and is eager to talk about the England team.

"What happened to them?" he asks of the Jamaica collapse. "They are good players."

As I try to sound as though I know what I'm talking about, mentioning captaincy-coach splits, the IPL and the fact that England just aren't very good at the moment, Gravy sagely nods his head. As a West Indies supporter he has seen it all before.

Feeling a bit a guilty at being one of those people who came just to meet Gravy, I realise I need some more batteries and ask him for a pack of AAs. "You need them for your camera?," he asks. "These ones would damage it, better go to the shop over the road." So I buy a lighter instead. Don't know why, I don't smoke.

Before leaving I remember that my taxi driver, who took me to the ARG in the morning, asked me to say hello to Gravy for him so I give him the message from JP. "He's a good man, will look after you well," Gravy says. "When you see him, tell him he owes me a Red Stripe." I bet he hardly ever needs to buy himself a drink.

With his stall to look after, Gravy doesn't get to watch much cricket these days but is hoping to be in Barbados for the third Test. Is there any chance of comeback? "Nah, I'm retired," he says, before adding. "But I might be going to St Lucia [for the one-dayer] and might do a little dance for the fans." It's sure to bring the house down if he does.

If you are ever in St Johns and happen to be near Stand 16 at the West taxi station walk by and see Gravy. He'll be more than happy to chat and you will leave feeling uplifted.

First up, my bags didn't make it onto my flight. After standing for 15 minutes by the carousel I, and about a dozen other people, caved to the inevitable. We would be wearing the same clothes again today. Apologies to anyone who sat down wind of me.

We all approached the LIAT baggage agent who, of course, had the process down to a tee. He'd seen it all before, in fact with the previous flight and no doubt the next one as well. Asking what the problem was he said "overweight," which I thought was a bit harsh as I don't think my waist had expanded that much despite all the jerk chicken and tea-time doughnuts.

After filling out the form – "only I know the codes," the agent said when asked if people could do their own – he said the bag would be delivered by 11am today. I left my hotel at nine to go to the England net session, and when I returned at 2pm my bag was waiting for me at the reception. When I tried to lift it I realised what the man had meant by overweight. Must pack lighter in future, but a change of clothes has never felt so good.

So the concerns about LIAT were true, but in their defence they also lived to their later promise. Thousands of people at Heathrow's terminal five had to wait a lot longer than 12 hours for their luggage to arrive.

Anyway, enough of the bag stories (at least for now) this is, after all, a cricket tour.

England's players had their first chance to release some of that tension that has built up during, and since, their stunning (for the wrong reasons) collapse for 51. It's always interesting to watch players go about their routines, especially when they have sunk to such depths.

The challenge, though, was finding the session. They had been scheduled to train at the Sir Vivian Richards Stadium from around 9.30am, but when we pulled up there was distinct lack of cricketers. So it was back in the taxi and a quick trip to the Recreation Ground in St Johns and an unexpected rapid tour of Antigua from south to north.

For the record, Kevin Pietersen and Andrew Flintoff looked in good nick – it was a case of keep your eyes on the ball when they were both pinging the spinners out of the nets. Ian Bell, though, had a bit of a rough time against the quicks, but the one who had the biggest struggle was Tim Ambrose. He began in the spinners' net, facing the combined skills of Pietersen, Mushtaq Ahmed and a local youngster, so nothing too taxing there. But then in the quicks' net (or probably more accurately by now, the medium-pace net), he was twice bowled, once by Ottis Gibson and then by another net bowler.

Now, it may not seem important that England's reserve keeper could hardly lay bat on ball, but if Matt Prior goes down on the morning of the game Ambrose is in. And, he is set to play in the fourth Test anyway because Prior is flying home for the birth of his child. Better have some more nets before then, Tim.

The Antiguan bowlers helping out with the session all enjoyed the chance to bowl at the England batsmen and certainly put plenty of effort in. So much so that one of the quicks pulled up with what seemed like a hamstring strain and was helped out by the England physio Kirk Russell. Normally he has enough injuries to deal with from his own team, but today everyone came out unharmed. At least physically.

	The airport in St Marteen © Cricinfo Ltd

I'm sending this from Princess Juliana International Airport, in St Marteen, on my way to Antigua. The two teams – and the TV crew – had a direct charter flight, but the humble journalist is not so lucky. However, this brief stopover has many bonuses.

This is what the Caribbean looks like in the holiday brochures; sweeping beaches, crystal blue water and swaying palm trees. Jamaica had all of those, but Kingston itself was a rather edgy city. That isn't meant as a harsh comment – and I certainly didn't have a chance to explore it properly, while other areas of the island are meant to be stunning (not least the Blue Mountains) – but when you are warned not to walk five minutes between hotels it does give you a certain impression.

St Marteen, an island split in ownership between the French and the Dutch, is the picture-perfect Caribbean island, as my final destination of Antigua also promises to me, with luxury yachts moored in the bays and coves. Dutch police patrol the customs area, making one tempted to burst into a Harry Enfield sketch but then realising it probably isn't very wise.

However, what makes it even more notable is the thrilling approach to the airport where you skim low over the beach. If you want a picture, just stick the airport name into Wikipedia or Google and you'll see what I mean. (It's here, Ed.)

Our plane was a fairly modest jet, but when the jumbos come in from overseas they have to approach so low over the beach that the sunbathers can almost reach up and touch the fuselage. It is a haven for plane spotters and those who have ever wondered what four jet engines sound like from a few metres away.

But, as I sit here making the most of the Wifi in a pristine, modern airport that puts Gatwick and much of Heathrow to shame, I can't help but wonder whether I will be joined later tonight by all my luggage. Many of you will have heard of the issue of lost bags on inter-island flights, they are the must-have travel stories of a Caribbean trip, much like trishaw rides in Sri Lanka or tuk-tuks in India.

When we checked in at Norman Manley International the agent said he would happily tag my main bag all the way to Antigua. As an aside, a colleague travelling with me had a nice heated debate over excess baggage which, with commendable persistence, he eventually won.

"But there's no guarantee that Liat will deliver it," was the agent's less-than-reassuring aside as our bags were hurried away to the dark recesses of the baggage system. In these parts, Liat, which officially stands for Leeward Islands Airport Transport, also stands for Lost in Another Terminal.

The problem, you see, is most of the planes are so small with about fifty seats and not much room for suitcases and holdalls. My ticket says my bags will arrive in Antigua, and the company rep in St Marteen was adamant they would as well. I'll report back tomorrow with the end result.

	"Sweet revenge" reads the lead story in the Sunday Jamaica Observer after West Indies routed England © Jamaica Observer

It's a good job Sunday is the traditional day of rest because a quite few people are probably nursing some serious hangovers. Kingston woke up to headlines of "REVENGE" as the newspapers savoured the moment of West Indies' famous win. The town was quiet this morning, the normally packed roads nearly deserted, but it had been a far different story the night before.

The music was pumping out of Sabina Park long after the game finished and the mound stand would have partied all night if officials had let it. Some young West Indies fans will never have known a moment like this after being brought up on a history of defeat after defeat.

But shortly after the presentations, as the outfield was opened up for spectators to wander across (how nice it was to see that allowed) people of all ages hurried to look at the 22 yards were the drama had happened. A photographer who is out here for the UK papers later said that a young kid came up to him pretending to be Jerome Taylor. That is how heroes are created and a new generation of cricketers born.

The youngster ran alongside the pitch, hurling himself into an action that would certainly have got the interest of the ICC. But, of course, that didn't matter. He wanted to be a cricketer.

On the boundary edge a normally quite private Chris Gayle was posing for endless photos with Usain Bolt, another Jamaican star. Bolt had been a promising fast bowler in his youth before choosing athletics as his career, but maybe yesterday's events will encourage children to give cricket a go.

The speed of the victory took everyone by surprise. There were no chairs in the press conference room and my taxi driver hadn't heard the result. "What, West Indies won?!," he exclaimed. "You serious, man." It's always nice to convey some good news.

While the locals celebrated, the England fans went off in search of New Kingston's bars to drown their sorrows, although at the press conference Gayle had made an offer of his own when asked what they should do on their day off. "I could cook for them, some peas and chicken," he said. "But I'm sure they'll find somewhere for a beer."

And they certainly did, as many descended on Courtney Walsh's bar, Cuddy's, in the diplomatic area of town. It was a reggae night, but the England fans seemed happier to watch the Premiership football highlights. Later in the evening Fidel Edwards and Sulieman Benn (the little and large of West Indies bowlers) walked in with beaming smiles, but other players opted to stay at the hotel.

Shortly before the music began the DJ asked for a big cheer for West Indies. Then a lone member of the Barmy Army forlornly began to sing "We're going to win 3-1." His friends just looked at him, laughed, and went back to their beer. It was the best thing to do.

	The only way to travel © Getty Images

The morning Kingston traffic can make travelling to the ground a bit of a challenge and it's never easy to judge quite how long it will take. Unless, that is, you can find yourself a police escort.

As I pulled into the car park of the Hilton hotel to pick up a colleague on the way to the third day, the England team – complete with cricket's two most expensive players in Kevin Pietersen and Andrew Flintoff – had just boarded their coach. At the front was a police car and outrider motorbike cop with lights already flashing. My driver spotted his opportunity and raced back around to his driver's seat. "Let's get behind them," he said.

Then our first moment of good fortune. The coach had moved about 100 metres when he got held up at a corner by two people-carriers blocking the way. Neither driver appeared in a great hurry to move until the policeman switched on his sirens. The large coach eased around the bend, but there was no such caution from our taxi as we swung around the corner and skipped in front of another car. A poor man walking on the opposite side, minding his own business in the morning sunshine, got the shock of his life.

Seconds later we hurtled out of the hotel driveway, not taking much heed of any oncoming traffic, and only had one other car between us and the England coach. Then another moment of luck, as that car immediately turned left into one of the adjacent hotels. So it was now the police car, team coach and us. Talk about slipstreaming.

And it just got better. Two hotels down from the Hilton is the Pegasus (infamous, of course, for the scene of Bob Woolmer's death during the 2007 World Cup) where the West Indies team were staying. As we sped past, their team coach came onto the main road accompanied by its own set of police escorts. Now we were sandwiched in the middle. It was almost as though it had been planned.

Traffic was parted as the police vehicles made a path for the teams. This must be what being President or Prime Minister feels like. At one stage even a red light wasn't an issue as the foot was put to the floor. Quickly the West Indies bus gained on us and their outrider scooted past, no doubt unsure about the extra vehicle in the convoy.

He gave a quick glance into our taxi, but our driver was in no mood to heed and just kept his foot down. People walking down the street started to wave at us (well, they were probably waving at the players, but why spoil a good story?) and suddenly the ground was in view.

Getting this far would have been good enough, but what was the point in stopping now? The England coach turned into a side street that runs parallel to Sabina Park and we followed, soon to be joined by West Indies. The previous day we had to be dropped outside the gates as we weren't let through, but today the barriers remained open and in we went.

Door-to-door time: eight minutes. It's the way to travel. I could have had a lie in.

One of clearest signs of the decline in West Indies cricket has been the fall in attendances at Test matches. In years gone by the grounds would have been packed out with vocal home support, supplemented by boat and plane loads of English tourists to cheer on the visitors.

The latter still remain and there has been a steady stream arriving into Kingston over the last few days, but the home support is threatening to vanish – at least inside the ground. Of course this isn't a problem solely in West Indies, but it is because the passionate crowds were once such a part of the Caribbean experience that it is felt so noticeably.

"They are not very encouraging," was how Donald Peters, the chief executive of the West Indies cricket board, bluntly explained tickets sales during the series launch. He wouldn't give an exact figure, but the signs on the first day were that take-up hadn't been great. However, a few more filtered in during the day and pre-sold tickets have never been a big thing here, as the World Cup showed in 2007. People like to decide on the day and walk-up, but less are choosing to these days.

The board will let school children in free – and there are two schools behind the main scoreboard side of the ground, so let's hope they are allowed to bunk off early – but have not yet decided whether to drop the ticket prices which currently range from JAM$800 to JAM$2,400 (£10-£30) per day.

Since the ground was redeveloped for the World Cup there are now vast concrete stands at either end. They are impressive structures with excellent facilities, but it now means that it looks very obvious when there aren't many people in and it creates a poor image for the game.

On the plus side, the series sponsors have struck a deal to allow free radio coverage of the match. Listening to the action on headsets inside the ground has always been popular in West Indies, but in recent times some matches have not been given ball-by-ball coverage.

While it is important that West Indies continue to show improvement in their performances to attract an audience, the game also needs to be made as accessible to the public as possible.

Blizzards, drifting snow, blocked roads. Ah, the joys of an English winter. What a difference 10 hours makes (or maybe it was the 4500 miles) as our plane descends into Norman Manley Airport with the stunning backdrop of the Blue Mountains. Welcome to Jamaica.

The flight nearly didn't happen. And given the fact that Britain seizes up at the merest hint of the white stuff, it's something of a miracle that it did. The cabin crew had to be scrambled from "anyone who came through door" as the captain bluntly put it. One of them was meant to be going to Manchester, another to Heathrow and another to Barbados. But for those bound for Kingston, we were just grateful they found enough to get our flight off the ground (with the help of the de-icers).

Away from the selfish factor of needing to make it to the first Test on time, the happiest people on the plane were the healthy number of England fans who had battled through the weather to make the airport on time. There was a good smattering of Barmy Army, wearing the T-shirts of previous overseas adventures, who by the time we were half way across the Atlantic were starting up conversations with the locals on board. The consensus – England might not have it all their own way.

About thirty minutes before landing, the captain urged anyone who was interested to look out the right hand side windows for a glimpse at Guantanamo Bay. Not something that will be on the sightseeing list of many England fans, but there was still a mad dash to one side of the plane – but, unlike in the movies, the aircraft stayed perfectly upright.

Going to the Caribbean is one of the few cricketing destinations (from the UK) where you travel east to west, therefore earning yourself a few extra hours. The warm sun was still shining as a plane load of Brits, many with winter jackets now flung over their shoulders, trooped to the taxi ranks.

And so the adventure begins. For some it will be a week-long trip, others the holiday of a lifetime and for some the experience of life on tour. Expect another influx of supporters for the Antigua and Barbados Tests, but bare a thought for a few unlucky fans who missed Monday's flight as they were stuck in snowdrifts on the M25. They are due to arrive into Monetgo Bay and transfer to Kingston on Tuesday, just in time for the Test, but that all depends on the snow stopping. Now, where's that sunblock.