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September 22, 2009

Posted by Osman Samiuddin on 09/22/2009

Stepping out of isolation


People walk by pillars composing the South African flag on a Johannesburg street © AFP
 

I received at least 20 personal travel advisories before coming to Johannesburg. Don't get mugged (do I have a choice?), don't be shot (thanks for that one, I'll try my best), don't stick your hand out of a moving car (okay), don't walk around outside after sunset (vampires?), don't go to an ATM alone, don't wear a watch, leather, smart shoes, nice shirts and shoes (am I travelling to the 17th annual Hobo World Summit?).

It's quite a feat because, coming from Karachi, theoretically there aren't many places in the world where you can go to and not feel safe. It got to me initially and my first day here I spent eyeing everyone a little furtively before the guilt sank me: it's a terrible way to be in a new country, especially one where the sky can be as big and as beautiful and as pure as here.

This security thing is a strange business and I'm not sure it's something we'll ever come to terms with. I can live happily in Pakistan with the Taliban and suicide bombings and growing urban crime and yet be nervous coming into Johannesburg. It is not something that has to be understood anymore, it is something that just has to be lived with.

*************

International isolation plays all kinds of tricks with the mind. For various reasons, it hasn't been easy for Pakistanis to travel in recent years, myself included in that honourable and burgeoning list. This is thus my first trip outside South Asia for many years and despite having previously lived abroad, I have felt out of sync.

We say in Pakistan that Karachi is so cosmopolitan, bursting with all kinds of Pakistanis, and in terms of the rest of the country, it is. But compared to Dubai or Johannesburg, Karachi is one person cloned 15 million times over. And to mingle among this mass of culture, dialect, language, colour, to interact, can be disorienting at first if you're not used to it. Slights are seen where none are intended, words are misheard, intent can be misunderstood, gestures and the nuances of those gestures are easily overlooked.

It's like learning how to be a person of the world again and to do this in a city like Johannesburg, which houses three to four entire worlds within one city, is altogether trickier. Globalisation hasn't yet fully come to Pakistan, and much as the country has hurried along over the last 20 years, the world seems still to be passing the country by. It's difficult to capture in a space like this, for it is seen largely in little things, like airports, or customer service at shops, or roads and public transport, or the size of malls and the number of global brands in them, or buying proper, not pirated, CDs, or grand cinemas, or skyscrapers.

On the plane over, two kids sat next to me, whizzing through the touch-screen TV on their seats as if they came out of their mothers' wombs holding just such a contraption. I meanwhile fumbled along, vainly searching for buttons, trying to make sense of all the symbols, amazed at all the options and at how far in-flight entertainment had come. I finally adjusted but until I had I felt like a pensioner, and I'm not even in my mid-30s. More relevantly, I felt as if from another world altogether, where you're lucky if you get a smile on the plane.

I can see why then so many expatriates don't try to overcome this, don't try to adjust, because it isn't easy. It is much easier to seek the comfort of your own and what you know. It is not the way ahead.

Pakistan's cricket team is also coming out of and battling isolation. It will not be easy.

 
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Comments

Posted by: Ilyas Anwar on 09/22/2009

Your writings are always enjoyable.Regarding the Pakistan Cricket team,I am optimist that it will come out of isolation with ease by showing their dominance in the ICC Championship in S.Africa.

Posted by: Rajen on 09/22/2009

Hi Osman!
Welcome to South Africa. I've lived here for `50 years and am third generation Indian and never been stressed with "crime" in this marvellous country . Enjoy our 1 st/ 3rd world country by taking normal precautions that u'd observe any where in the world. Give me a shout and I'd sponsor a shared drink with u anytime in Jo'burg/ Durban.
Rajen:0766581221
0766581221

Posted by: Jozi_man on 09/22/2009

Welcome to Jozi I hope you enjoy your stay, it's not anywhere near as bad as people make out. You will also find amazing hospitality and friendliness in Jozi, the doomsdayers won't tell you about that one.

Go out and enjoy our unique cultural experience.

Posted by: wanderer1 on 09/22/2009

"Globalisation hasn't yet fully come to Pakistan".... be thankful, trust me, we'll be living in a post-globalist world in a short while and beautiful it will be.

Posted by: Ahmed Shaikh on 09/22/2009

Hence why we as citizens of the world, need to step outside of our comfort zone/bubble. There is a need in modern times to be globally aware. Ironically its not just us Pakistani's in our own little worlds; ever since I've moved to Chicago, i bump into others who ask where i'm from and my response is well I'm from Karachi but grew up in Dubai. Karachi has apparently made a name for itself, however people ask Dubai? where is that? Montana? I guess the Sheikhs of UAE still need to spend a bit more dough on *ahem* advertising. Globalization FTW.

Posted by: vilas on 09/22/2009

I loved your article.

Posted by: augustus on 09/22/2009

Stepping out of isolation- Osman Samiuddin

Osman writes with great humour and wit. His comments about muggings, vampires, world hobo summits etc, are really funny! Wodehouse funny!Irony to the front!
He writes knowingly about the game and the players too ( I have read his many previous articles) Another thing about just this article was his comments about Karachi - the suicide bombings and urban crime. He writes without fuss,simply- yet we all know how chilling it can be. Wish other cricket columnists take a leaf from his 'book'...

Posted by: Adnan Rafiq on 09/22/2009

C'mon Osman, I normally like your articles, but this one is too far fetched... it feels like reading about an alien country. I live in Pakistan and get to travel abroad frequently (including global business hubs like Dubai, Paris, London, NYC etc.) and I think Pakistan is fast catching up on many fronts. Impressive diffusion of Mobile technology is one recent example. Pakistani kids (if it is an indicator of progress at all) are adept to all kinds of gadgets, latest mobile phones, laptops, video games, digital cameras, etc. Brands like Nokias, X-boxes, and Sonys etc. are always in high demand as gifts among my young cousins and their skill at these always amazes me. I guess you experienced a bit of cultural shock visiting SA for the first time... I hope you soon start noticing the simlarities between Karachi and Johannesburg and not just the differences...!!!

Posted by: Salman N Malik on 09/22/2009

Mr Samiuddin,

Quite an interesting piece..I must say. The world is passing Pakistan by, but as an x-patriate Pakistani, I do hope that we will ultmately catch up, or at least be within sight of it. Your penultimate paragraph is correct, we do "seek comfort of our own and what we know...it may not be the way ahead". We will have to be more tolerant and accepting of others' - opinions and feelings towards us. That is the first step ahead.

Posted by: Suhail on 09/22/2009

Hi Osman,anything +ive u can quote for Pakistan?

Posted by: Hassan Khan on 09/22/2009

Usually Mr. Samiuddin is a very capable writer and does a good job but as a Pakistani I feel that this article is very unfair. Now you will say "I'm just stating the facts and their is pollution and high crime and security risks in Pakistan". But Mr. Samiuddin, here is where u're missing the point. There are tons of reporters inside and outside of Pakistan that already report this. What we need are capable people like you to report what is good with this country. Please understand that currently there is a huge smear campaign running against Pakistan in the world media and it is up to every Pakistani to change that. I'm not saying that we need to distort the facts or for God's sake not state them. All I am saying is please show other side of this country too that is good and is often overlooked.
If u and me are not going to do it then no one will. And that will indeed be a sad day in this beautiful country's reporting history.

Posted by: vinod on 09/22/2009

Wow. Nice heart felt writing. I can relate to the feelings of the author. Osman, very nice Article. Keep up the good work.

Posted by: paul on 09/23/2009

Thanks Osman
It is great to read your experience and perspective, i hope South Africa (and the world) make Pakistan feel welcome and enable them to play their best cricket.
At the same time, i hope the Pakistani players step up and seize the opportunity to impress with skill and tenacity, i hope we dont see argued decisions, walk off's, drug scandals or bad sportmanship. The youth of Pakistan need good role models and to enjoy success.
Go Pakistan !
Paul

Posted by: David on 09/23/2009

Osman

Your piece has that rarest quality in any writing, let alone that of the cricet variety - emotional honesty. Managing to tie in your personal experiences with the recent societal shifts in South Africa and Pakistan was a tour de force, and all in a few paragraphs. Thank you.

David

http://thesillymidoff.blogspot.com/

Posted by: Rahul on 09/23/2009

nice and honest

Posted by: Manjula on 09/23/2009

What you write about traveling while south asian (TWSA?) strikes a chord. I am originally from Sri Lanka and having a Sri Lankan passport is a passport to all sorts of indignities none which I deserve as an individual but am deemed to deserve as an identity.

The narratives of terrorism written outside our shores have included us as characters without our permission all the while we are subjected to violence from within our nations often orchestrated by those narrators outside our nations.

Perhaps we just need to get our act together, open our own borders in South Asia so we can be something like a European Union, promote growth, investment, human rights, rule of law, culture and freedom all of which we don't have to mimic the west to find. Then it will be others who are seeking to get into our borders and not us being told to stay within our own.

Posted by: Munir Khan on 09/23/2009

The article is welcome. Let Osman simply be the recorder of the times. There is only so far one can go and port the "good"/"other" side. When there none of that to be found let nobody say "But, nobody told us! All was simply fine, wasn't it?". When honest reporting does start reporting the good around us, we will know we all have turned for the better. It is up to all of us to hope and work for us a thing to pass. We really, really need a dose of reality from time to time; however bitter it may be. It does not really matter where it comes from ... "Truth alone wins."

Posted by: Pradeep Goorha on 09/23/2009

Good job. I appreciate your sensitive piece. To likes of Mr Hassan Khan, I ask for a re-read and understand what Mr Samiuddin is saying. He is neither trying to show the bad side or the good side here. Besides, the world has better things to do then to singularly indulge in a "smear campaign" against Pakistan.

Posted by: Asim Muhammad on 09/23/2009

Salam Readers,
I am hard core pak cricket fan, and osman is my fav reporter,I like this article but i have to agree with hassan khan here that we need to bring positive things from pakistan to the public knowlledge,I am in canada but my heart lives in karachi,cricket runs in my blood,but to see bad media for pak team is disheartening.security is bad in india as well but its pakistan who suffers most,so plz be postive about writing anything about pakistan.
I hope pak will do well in this tournament.
Regards
Asim Canada

Posted by: uday on 09/23/2009

Dear Osman,

Good Article. It really touched my heart. Being an Indian i also understand how security in such a misapprehended word. Can any country really make full proof security arrangements? No i guess. But sports should never stop in the name of security.And no country should be isolated in the name of security. I look forward to see cricket back in action in Pakistan

Keep the good work!

Posted by: Zohaib H, Shah on 09/23/2009

Excellent post Mr. Samiuddin, I understand the way you feel as I myself felt something similar whilst travelling abroad recently. I especially love the way you start off on a lighter note before coming to the heart of the matter, hope you regularly updae this diary.

On a side note: Please try and increase the frequency of your editorials, there hardly seem to be any these days!

Posted by: Yasir Irfat on 09/23/2009

Salam to All,

Dear Paul, it is good that you mentioned Pakistan cricket team should "step up and seize the opportunity to impress with skill and tenacity". World knows of Pakistan Skills and Pakistan just won T20 worldcup if you can remember, and also you mentioned following,
1) Argued decisions (Check the history of Australians for arguments with Umpires specially in India, there are lots of videos of Micheal Slater)
2) Walk off's (Everybody know what was cooking)
3) Drug scandals (At least they went through some trials, unlike many Cricketing giants who never answered for mach fixing)
4) Bad sportmanship (How do you define bad sportsmanship)

Posted by: Viv on 09/23/2009

Welcome to South Africa and Johannesburg.

I hope you have an enjoyable stay in my country and best of luck to the Pakistan cricket team.

Dont be too scared about crime in Johannesburg. People are very friendly and very helpful and warm.

Have fun in SA!

Posted by: Haider on 09/23/2009

Part 1: Last year i also went to South Africa for my thesis research and i got similar advice from friends (mostly South Africans). I remember we had to pass through Jo'burg on our way to Kruger park. We were told the central part of the city is a no go zone. Somehow we managed to screw up with the map and lost our way to end up in the Central part. It was after the sunset and at that moment all the scary stories that people had told us about Jo'burg or even the damned tora bora started popping up in the head like over heated pop corns. We were three people in the car; The Bengali Girl was on verge to crying and repeating after every 5 sec "get me out of here", me being the driver was shouting at the Dutch fellow for screwing up with the navigation, and he in return was cursing me for taking a wrong turn somewhere. We were scared to stop the car anywhere and ask for directions. After an hour of circling around in that area we managed to get back on the right track. Later on we were

Posted by: Haider on 09/23/2009

Part 2: Later on, back in Port Elizabeth, we discussed this incident with out African friends and they all were like "you guys are so lucky". Everyone had a story to tell about their friends uncle, or a friend to their friends aunt, who got mugged in jo'burg, or got shot, or Osman puts it 'got attacked by a vampire'. We three were of the opinion that we didn't see anything different about that place. There were plenty of traffic, plenty of lights, plenty of people having drinks with friends, and all sorts of activities going on. We didn't hear a single gun shot, didn't see someone roaming the streets with a knife in hand, or whatever bad u can think of. To us it seemed like any other place. The scary stories told to us by others had created a sort of ghost town in our heads. No place is crime free, its the image created by others that makes a place feasible and safe. I didn't get a chance to explore and enjoy Jo'burg during that visit, just because of these misconceptions.

Posted by: faizan on 09/23/2009

When I first read this article, I thought it was written by an indian author! I think we have had enough of such adverse comments about pakistan! Its high time we should talk about more real and practical things like pakistan's development and the better side of this country, yet to be displayed!
Be pakistani.. your name does suggest something to me..

Posted by: E Ahmad on 09/23/2009

Great word OS, i was debriefed like that as well when i went to SA in 2007 for T20 World Cup from London, honestly i was worried, but the minute you walk out of JBurg airport, everything is fine .... very, very friendly people, Durban is like your in India/Pakistan, JBurg is great for all kind of age group, but my fav. stop was cape town, brilliant city .... Well Done SA, keep up the good work, will come back again for Sure !!!!

Posted by: Mo Murad on 09/23/2009

An excellent article that describes the authors personal feelings. Of course other in Pakistan and South Africa may have totally different personal feelings. What I hope this article will encourage is to allow everyone to move outside their own comfort zones and explore and understand the variety of people and cultures that exist. There is plenty of good everywhere if only people look.

Posted by: AJ on 09/23/2009

Great article keep them coming . . .
Always keen to hear about my home country

Posted by: Bis on 09/23/2009

Osman Samiuddin can WRITE. And that's not something you can say about all (or even most) cricket correspondents. Someone who can situate what they are writing about within the broader context of social intercourse, thereby confirming the verity of CLR James' interrogative aphorism - "What do they know of cricket who only cricket know?"

Posted by: harry on 09/24/2009

Osman, pls speak for yourself. The phrases 'coming out of isolation' and 'world is passing Pakistan by' indicate that you are seriously deluded or have never bothered to explore other parts of the world. This is not a nationalist view at all but the result of objective observation - and one that I consider myself qualified to make. I grew up and started my career in Karachi and am currently involved in an expat assignment in one of the major financial capitals. During my travels over the last 10 years, the only continent that I have not visited is probably Antartica. I visit the homeland at least 3/4 times a year and each time am amazed at how fast the country is moving forward despite all the various troubles. Another interesting observation: for some reason, people in Pakistan are way ahead (economically, socially, etc) than the majority of the Pakistani diaspora. We seem to export our mediocrity. Wonder why? And yes, regretably there is currently a major perception war on-accept it.

Posted by: manoj on 09/24/2009

A very mature article. Great pleasure to read. As an Indian can understand the feelings of many of your Pakistani readers. But if things are to change for the better in Pakistan it has to be through people power.

Posted by: Rudge on 09/25/2009

Excellent writing for Cricinfo, and I believe subjectivity is allowed, despite calls from your fellow countrymen to "state the positives". Forgetting the insecurities (which perhaps reflect a truth known deep down) of a few, I loved your account of the transition from one country to another.

Posted by: desikan on 09/25/2009

Osman's articles have always been very objective and mature. I really loved the way he described about setting up the in-flight TV!
About fitness, I suppose everyone has to take note of the amazing South Africans!

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