I found out about the blast on the way to the stadium. Pouring rain had
already ruled out any prospect of play starting before early evening, but
when the phone trilled, there was more than a weather forecast to worry
about. When told, my driver didn't panic. "Best not to go toward the
stadium," he said. So I asked him to turn around and head towards the Taj
Samudra instead.

It took us nearly an hour to get within range, the roads choc-a-bloc with
cars and tuk-tuks full of people presumably heading home. When he found
out that I was from India, the driver's mood deteriorated. "You Indians
helped this LTTE (Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam)," he said sourly, even as I sat mute, not wanting to be drawn into a debate on a conflict where the fault-lines run so deep.

We ended up getting nowhere near the Taj. The roadblocks had been put in
place on Galle Road more than a kilometer away from the hotel, and the
driver suggested that I go to Cinnamon, the South African team hotel,
instead. After a twisting run through narrow back streets full of puddles,
we reached another road-block. Another detour, and a further obstruction
on, he gave up. "Best you get out here and walk," he said curtly.

The walk lasted just a few paces before military personnel pounced, having
seen my fatigue-green backpack. Flashing my media pass made not the
slightest difference. Cramped into a shelter not big enough to accommodate
two, I had to fish into the bag and come up with my passport and other
proof of identity before I was allowed to go on.

By the time I trooped into the hotel, soaked to the skin, both team
managements were in discussion with the Sri Lankan cricket board over a future course
of action. The South African players milled around the lobby, talking to
journalists and waiting for word. Only Makhaya Ntini, Mr Cool at the best
and worst of times, appeared unruffled, chatting to a friend with his feet
up. Such composure, however, was beyond most, on a day when cricket came a
distant second to the harshest reality of the time we live in - terror
attacks.